diagnosing damp problems

These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience. You need to confirm that three conditions are present to definitively confirm a case of rising damp: 1. Apply a breathable waterproofer to protect your bricks or masonry from damp. Leaks in plumbing and central heating pipework can cause damp patches which could be misinterpreted as rising or penetrating damp. You can tell if your salts are hygroscopic by whether they get damp and then dry out periodically – this is the salts attracting moisture from the air when the air is moist enough. ... and permanently cure damp problems. These are still used, but the market has moved more towards the use of aqueous silane creams injected into mortar bed and perp joints. In the majority of cases any plaster will need to be removed from the affected area and the wall will need to be allowed to dry out thoroughly before replastering and redecorating to ensure no future reappearance. On the upside, due to the use of waterproof renovating plasters no one will ever know you got it wrong. However, after 30-50 years of environmental exposure the mortar degrades and rather than providing an impermeable barrier, it then becomes the main moisture pathway. We’ve got a guide to how to do this in our How to Remove a Brick project. Here’s the problem for RIC’s… While the people who book their CPD events are very nice people to deal with, they are not technical people, and are often under pressure to book a speaker, without understanding that speakers approach, or view of the technical issue to be discussed. Failed or absent damp proof course (DPC). Tanking plasters reduce breathability, and therefore moisture evaporation, and cause induced rising damp. These systems do a great deal of damage in the medium to long term, and we never recommend them, and never specify them. This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. In the early days it was common for plaster to be hacked off and replaced with sand and cement render containing a waterproof additive that was then finished with a coat of Carlite finish.

These can be tricky to trace because the water may run down roof rafters and the damp showing on the wall or ceiling can be a long way from the source of the actual leak. This then provides water and moisture in the ground a direct path around the current DPC and up into your walls.

You will initially have to check whether you have a cavity wall (seek assistance from a professional if you are not sure) – any properties built after the 1930’s should have one. It only comes in four forms or states [1]. Deficits in attention, motor control and perceptual abilities (DAMP) is used as an umbrella term to describe children with a combination of motor control, perceptual and attention problems. Maybe not as snappy as the original definition but it clears up a number of issues and in itself can be used as an aid to diagnosis and specification. Out of these, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website.

So how do, Condensation – this is when the water vapour normally produced in homes reaches a cooler surface and the water containing within it is released. In the early days of dpc’s stone slabs and slate were the materials of choice and were layered between or beneath brick courses around 6 inches above ground level to provide a barrier to prevent damp rising up from the ground any further. This was a key question asked in my research and I could not find a shred of evidence to support the view that physical DPCs fail though I accept that not enough research has been done in this area. Draught proofing and insulation will help to keep your house (and its walls) a bit warmer at all times, which means that water is less likely to condense out of the air in your space. 3. Wet surfaces indicate that the problem is on-going. I have both specified retrofit DPC injection and used it personally because pragmatically occasions do arise when you can do little else. Look at the condition of the materials used – are they cracked, brittle, split, do you even have one? The best and most effective fix (but as is always the case the most costly and time consuming) is to remove all of the plaster from the damaged area and about 400mm beyond in all directions (to ensure no salts are left), dry out the walls’ surface and then apply a salt neutraliser. There could be a variety of causes for your damp issues and one way to get to the root or potentially roots (if there is more than one issue causing the damage) of the problem is to look at the visual damage itself and work backwards.

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