Sometimes there are men in suits sitting in the corner, talking about mergers, but over the course of the meal even they are moved to silence. The frills at its edge almost seem like jagged tooth marks—the kind you’d find on a well-loved plastic Frisbee. Transportation:Close to the San Mateo Caltrain station. Hokkaido uni is musky and bright; at Sushi Yoshizumi, a rustic, apricot-colored spoonful of it is served atop a cylinder of vinegared rice wrapped in crisp, dry seaweed. While the fish selection may not be novel to frequent sushi diners (maguro, salmon, kinmedai, anago, ika, hotate, toro), the quality very well could be and is admirably chosen more for sustainability and flavor than rarity. Akagai, or red clam, is colored with a gradient like a Thai iced tea. No music is playing, and you hear little besides the occasional rush of a passenger train.

I've been to enough establishments where waiters monotonously describe dishes to know that real passion for food is hard to fake and even harder to miss. Instead of taking notes, you might think of a cabin, with each course mapped to some aspect of the building.

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Sometimes there are men in suits sitting in the corner, talking about mergers, but over the course of the meal even they are moved to silence. The frills at its edge almost seem like jagged tooth marks—the kind you’d find on a well-loved plastic Frisbee. Transportation:Close to the San Mateo Caltrain station. Hokkaido uni is musky and bright; at Sushi Yoshizumi, a rustic, apricot-colored spoonful of it is served atop a cylinder of vinegared rice wrapped in crisp, dry seaweed. While the fish selection may not be novel to frequent sushi diners (maguro, salmon, kinmedai, anago, ika, hotate, toro), the quality very well could be and is admirably chosen more for sustainability and flavor than rarity. Akagai, or red clam, is colored with a gradient like a Thai iced tea. No music is playing, and you hear little besides the occasional rush of a passenger train.

I've been to enough establishments where waiters monotonously describe dishes to know that real passion for food is hard to fake and even harder to miss. Instead of taking notes, you might think of a cabin, with each course mapped to some aspect of the building.

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